I’m new to dog obedience training.?
Posted on Jul 30, 2010 under dog obedience training | 4 CommentsMy dog seems very clear that it isn’t the Alpha in our household but whenever I walk her she always tries to lead. How can I get her to listen.
She’s a 1 year old Norwegian Elkhound, if that helps.
It has nothing to do with being Alpha. She just wants to go ahead!
Manage the behavior, for now, with a front-clip harness. Then, teach her to walk next to you.
1. In the house, with no leash, reward your dog for giving you attention or touching an object in your hand or your palm, as your hand is down by your side (give a nose-targeting cue, if you have one). Pick a side and stay with it (left is traditional) — you can train the other side later, but you don’t want to reward zigzagging.
Then move a little — just a few steps – don’t reward if the dog is in front of you, facing you; walk a bit and/or turn, if needed, to get her behind you and to your side. If she stays with the object, and walks with you, give a treat.
Keep rewarding her catching up to your hand and not passing it, until it’s pretty predictable.
You may want to try this method instead, which is especially useful if your dog doesn’t know “touch” : have the clicker in the right hand, a handful of food in the left hand, and the dog on the left, with her head no further forward than your knee. Place a treat on the ground next to your left foot – if your dog has a cue for taking a treat, say that. As the dog eats, step forward. As the dog moves to catch up, click/treat. Continue for 5 – 10 click/treats.
If the dog runs past your left knee, before you have a chance to click, turn and head off in a new direction –the dog is now behind you and you can work in that direction. Also turn around if the dog tries to face you, or goes to the right.
You will know that it’s time to c/t more infrequently when the dog catches up, slows at your left side, and looks up, "Where’s my click?" Bingo – click/treat. You’ve just taught the dog that staying by your left side, whether you are moving or have stopped, is worthwhile. Of course, keep practicing!
2. Whichever method you use, raise the bar — walk a little further before delivering a treat – still indoors. Keep the treats on the opposite side of your body from the dog, until you are ready to deliver one, so you are not luring the dog with treats, but rewarding voluntary behavior
You should have a dog that bobs along with you wherever you go, in short order. If she gets overexcited and jumps up, ignore her for a while, then try again.
3. When she is sticking to you like glue, start making it harder – still indoors. Go around furniture, zigzag, speed up, slow down, stop, and reward the dog’s staying with you if she does. If she doesn’t, go away or sit down, and ignore the dog.
4. When it is consistent, put a cue on it, so your dog knows when to walk with you (you can also train a cue for her being permitted to go ahead and lead you), at another time).
5. If you have a fenced yard, try playing the game outdoors, still without a leash, at a time your dog is likely to be interested (for example, after she’s zoomed around and played and sniffed).
6. Put on the leash — a regular 4 or 6 foot leash is best – please do not use a retractable — with a harness or regular buckle or martingale collar – and play the “follow me” game in the same places (indoors first!) you did without the leash, starting with just a step or two. If the dog doesn’t play by the rules, take off the leash and ignore her for a while, then try again. If the leash has already become a cue to dart around and pull, you may need to change that association. Try using a completely different leash and/or collar.
Be careful not to use the leash to direct or correct her! If need be, have it attached to you at the waist, rather than holding it, to avoid accidental yanking from the human.
7. When she’s playing the game without caring about the presence or absence of the leash, take it on the road (but on a very short road — you may need to take walks of only a few steps outdoors!). If you get a loose leash, reward, reward, reward! And practice, practice, practice!
Keep giving treats, generously. Praise, too, if your dog adores your cheerful voice. If your dog loves to walk fast, walk fast to reward a loose leash, instead of, or in addition to, treats.
Don’t go anywhere – not even a step — if your dog pulls! And that means at any time, not just when you are purposely practicing. If your dog pulls toward something he wants, turn around and go the other way!
Once it is becoming habit, phase out the treats.
More info:
http://www.kathysdao.com/articles/Forget_About_Being_Alpha_in_Your_Pack.html
http://www.apdt.com.au/files/dominancestatement.pdf
http://www.jeandonaldson.com/jeans-blog-mainmenu-51/64-are-dogs-pack-animals
http://www.nonlineardogs.com/100MostSillyIntro.html
http://www.wolf.org/wolves/news/iwmag/2008/winter/alphawolf.pdf
July 30th, 2010 at 6:35 pm
My dog likes to be in front of me on the walk too and sometimes he’s behind me or beside me.
If she is not pulling I don’t think it matters. The only time I stop my dog is when he pulls or tries to go off in a direction I don’t want to go.
Then I stop dead in my tracks and say "with me" – we don’t move until he comes into a heeling position.
References :
July 30th, 2010 at 6:54 pm
Best thing to do is when the dog starts to walk ahead is to change direction and walk another way. It will soon learn it cant walk ahead otherwise its not gonna get anywhere.
References :
Just got my dog back from a training kennel
July 30th, 2010 at 7:12 pm
Use a Gentle Lead that you can purchase at Petsmart. It’s primary purpose is to teach your dog to not walk ahead of you. They work better than any collar when it comes to teaching how to walk correctly.
Also I use it when my dogs bark too much (just to calm them down) or when company comes over to our house. When they are wearing their lead, they know that they are "in training".
And I walk 3 dogs and all of them always walk beside me.
References :
July 30th, 2010 at 8:00 pm
It has nothing to do with being Alpha. She just wants to go ahead!
Manage the behavior, for now, with a front-clip harness. Then, teach her to walk next to you.
1. In the house, with no leash, reward your dog for giving you attention or touching an object in your hand or your palm, as your hand is down by your side (give a nose-targeting cue, if you have one). Pick a side and stay with it (left is traditional) — you can train the other side later, but you don’t want to reward zigzagging.
Then move a little — just a few steps – don’t reward if the dog is in front of you, facing you; walk a bit and/or turn, if needed, to get her behind you and to your side. If she stays with the object, and walks with you, give a treat.
Keep rewarding her catching up to your hand and not passing it, until it’s pretty predictable.
You may want to try this method instead, which is especially useful if your dog doesn’t know “touch” : have the clicker in the right hand, a handful of food in the left hand, and the dog on the left, with her head no further forward than your knee. Place a treat on the ground next to your left foot – if your dog has a cue for taking a treat, say that. As the dog eats, step forward. As the dog moves to catch up, click/treat. Continue for 5 – 10 click/treats.
If the dog runs past your left knee, before you have a chance to click, turn and head off in a new direction –the dog is now behind you and you can work in that direction. Also turn around if the dog tries to face you, or goes to the right.
You will know that it’s time to c/t more infrequently when the dog catches up, slows at your left side, and looks up, "Where’s my click?" Bingo – click/treat. You’ve just taught the dog that staying by your left side, whether you are moving or have stopped, is worthwhile. Of course, keep practicing!
2. Whichever method you use, raise the bar — walk a little further before delivering a treat – still indoors. Keep the treats on the opposite side of your body from the dog, until you are ready to deliver one, so you are not luring the dog with treats, but rewarding voluntary behavior
You should have a dog that bobs along with you wherever you go, in short order. If she gets overexcited and jumps up, ignore her for a while, then try again.
3. When she is sticking to you like glue, start making it harder – still indoors. Go around furniture, zigzag, speed up, slow down, stop, and reward the dog’s staying with you if she does. If she doesn’t, go away or sit down, and ignore the dog.
4. When it is consistent, put a cue on it, so your dog knows when to walk with you (you can also train a cue for her being permitted to go ahead and lead you), at another time).
5. If you have a fenced yard, try playing the game outdoors, still without a leash, at a time your dog is likely to be interested (for example, after she’s zoomed around and played and sniffed).
6. Put on the leash — a regular 4 or 6 foot leash is best – please do not use a retractable — with a harness or regular buckle or martingale collar – and play the “follow me” game in the same places (indoors first!) you did without the leash, starting with just a step or two. If the dog doesn’t play by the rules, take off the leash and ignore her for a while, then try again. If the leash has already become a cue to dart around and pull, you may need to change that association. Try using a completely different leash and/or collar.
Be careful not to use the leash to direct or correct her! If need be, have it attached to you at the waist, rather than holding it, to avoid accidental yanking from the human.
7. When she’s playing the game without caring about the presence or absence of the leash, take it on the road (but on a very short road — you may need to take walks of only a few steps outdoors!). If you get a loose leash, reward, reward, reward! And practice, practice, practice!
Keep giving treats, generously. Praise, too, if your dog adores your cheerful voice. If your dog loves to walk fast, walk fast to reward a loose leash, instead of, or in addition to, treats.
Don’t go anywhere – not even a step — if your dog pulls! And that means at any time, not just when you are purposely practicing. If your dog pulls toward something he wants, turn around and go the other way!
Once it is becoming habit, phase out the treats.
More info:
http://www.kathysdao.com/articles/Forget_About_Being_Alpha_in_Your_Pack.html
http://www.apdt.com.au/files/dominancestatement.pdf
http://www.jeandonaldson.com/jeans-blog-mainmenu-51/64-are-dogs-pack-animals
http://www.nonlineardogs.com/100MostSillyIntro.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VmWizZueFQ&feature=related
http://www.wolf.org/wolves/news/iwmag/2008/winter/alphawolf.pdf
References :